Taking his inspiration from classic horror movies, The Kooples’ artistic director for men’s wear Alexandre Elicha departed from the fitted, tailored looks of the past. He played on volume in a collection that incorporated elements of streetwear and grunge, moving away from classic The Kooples territory and tapping into the zeitgeist of elevated streetwear while maintaining its core motifs.

“I wanted it to be a bit like a vintage store, where you fall in love with a specific item of clothing,” Elicha said.

As such, many of the designs had distressed effects and a feeling of the pre-worn, and there were plenty of plaid shirts and lashings of silver jewelry. A shearling coat was updated with dropped shoulders to give it a more contemporary fit, but otherwise could have come straight out of a (admittedly, high-end) thrift store. T-shirts displayed motifs inspired by heavy metal, while a khaki sweater read “Nightmare” in orange. Watch out, Freddie Krueger! There were still the suits, but done in eggplant wool and worn with a safety-pin brooch, for example, they also had more of a casual feel.

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