Milan Men’s Fashion Week kicked off early, as Jil Sander showed in the spectacular garden of a Tuscan villa during Pitti Uomo — in just the latest instance of how creative director Raf Simons has redefined the house codes in his five years. The garden made an appropriate setting for the collection’s overwhelming hothouse colors and floral photo prints, themselves an intense foil for the classic tailoring. Solid colors and dense, uninterrupted surfaces highlighted the variety of familiar silhouettes. In knitwear, hues merged to form dramatic multistripes navigating right angles, evoking the Memphis school. Strips of what appeared to be electrician’s or reflective tape trimmed blazers, injecting a protective vibe, especially when combined with safety fluorescents and utilitarian belts. The collection felt both brand-right and yet more Raf than ever. And by a coincidence that smacked of Simon’s showmanship, the rain held off until the end of the finale.

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus