This year, any use of a skull looks like a nod to the late Lee Alexander McQueen, but even he never used them so ubiquitously. Rei Kawakubo even painted the motif in white on the backs of models’ heads. Checkered flag prints also accentuated the punk flavor of the collection in a non-threatening way. Blazers and cropped trousers were inset with ladder constructions of fabric strips, adding a refined hint of bondage. Sometimes straps were all that joined a jacket sleeve to the shoulder, a head-turning effect. Ultimately the skulls won over and became so overwhelming in number that they lost all sense of gloom — a neat trick — especially in the finale of swishy skull skirts.

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