Transporting his audience to a steamy night in Marrakesh, Gaultier presented a collection that offered as many marvels as a teeming souk. With a humid hammam backdrop, hunky men in skimpy briefs doused themselves as models paraded an array of North African-inspired outfits. Djellabas, in embroidered suede or crisp cotton, came with matching coats or were worn under tailored clothing. Gaultier winked, via lookalike models, to Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux – Morocco’s most stylish settlers ­ yet he made the familiar seem fresh. Robe-like knitwear, safari jackets and sarouel pants, for instance, were thematic but wearable. Prints popped out of billowing kaftans when viewed through 3-D specs, which added a new twist – as did Gaultier himself ­ who whirled at the end of the runway during the finale.

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