Alexandre Plokhov has been designing men’s wear for a number of years now, so when asked why he decided to launch a women’s collection this year his answer was simply, “I wanted a challenge.” And his line was anything but a translation of men’s wear for women. Plokhov sent out a tight lineup of beautifully crafted clothes that were cut to precision. Inspired by a young recruit who must say goodbye to his girlfriend, there were plenty of military influences for the boys, while girls had lots of interesting details like edgy zipper necklines, tough leathers, a chic pantsuit and sexy corseted jacket — all showcasing the designer’s craftsmanship in tailoring. Plokhov also offered a moment of dark romance, which included a dress with intricate pleats and laser-cut slashes that was simply breathtaking.

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