After taking a season off to reorganize his newly independent company, it would have been wonderful for Michael Bastian to come back with a fresh take on his philosophy of well-wrought, classic American sportswear. But the preppy-infused lineup of snug plaid blazers, bow ties and high-end gym shorts were too familiar to be exciting — even when worn by a female model whose breasts kept flopping out of her unbuttoned Western shirt. At a time when most designers have moved beyond these overworked themes, Bastian’s collection — nominally inspired by James Dean, which meant lots of opportunities for eyewear — looked a tad dated. Still, he has a well-honed merchant’s eye and there were plenty of retail-friendly pieces across lots of classifications to appreciate on their own, like handsome windowpane jackets, inviting knits and slender leather belts.

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