Maria Cornejo’s spring lineup was one of her strongest, filled with inventive cuts and details but without any tricky distractions. Silk dresses in a bold palette of prints or solids (lapis, scarlet and gold) were terrific in a looped “sail dress” with a draped, voluminous back. The layers were gracefully folded and pleated on many of her shapes but were never out of control. Leather is also important for the designer and came in the form of lean black dresses accented in cobalt blue; a purple jacket over Bermudas and a white kimono tunic over a slim skirt. While visually calmer than past seasons, the collection still had all of that downtown sensibility that has made the brand a cult favorite.

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