The energy of sports, and the technical nature of the gear, took Van Noten in a modern, function-driven direction for spring. To a driving techno soundtrack, his models whisked through a parking garage fast enough to put wind into their roomy parkas and anoraks in ultralight nylons. Outerwear was the main story of this collection, from terrific two-tone blousons with flaring back vents to elegant trenches belted in leather. Van Noten got a bit carried away with the bonding tape he used to make garments waterproof — he heat-fused it onto pants and even gentlemanly jute blazers — but the tailoring was top-notch, with subtle utility details, and graphic bands of color added an urban dynamism to loose-weave summer sweaters and simple white shirts.

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