Creative director Nicola Formichetti packed a raft of references — even gay porn — into his sophomore men’s collection for the label. Gold armorlike arm plates and visors evoked classical gods, while utilitarian details cropped up as zips and toggles on suits. Stonewashed denim recalled the bad taste of the Eighties; clinging, neon-colored club wear, the Nineties. Only a handful of looks, including sharp-shouldered suits and scubalike knitwear, married commercial appeal with Formichetti’s outré eye.

Creative director Nicola Formichetti packed a raft of references — even gay porn — into his sophomore men’s collection for the label. Gold armorlike arm plates and visors evoked classical gods, while utilitarian details cropped up as zips and toggles on suits. Stonewashed denim recalled the bad taste of the Eighties; clinging, neon-colored club wear, the Nineties. Only a handful of looks, including sharp-shouldered suits and scubalike knitwear, married commercial appeal with Formichetti’s outré eye.

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