This showcase of emerging men’s wear talent featured the Danish designer Astrid Andersen; Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton, who design under the label Agi & Sam; and San Diego-born Shaun Samson.
Andersen gave traditional men’s sportswear a luxurious spin. Her color palette referenced stained glass windows with pale yellow, verdigris, and Bordeaux, and she worked materials such as sheer silk organza, lightweight nylon, faux fur, and silk satin into basketball shirts and shorts, windbreakers, and bomber jackets.
Mdumulla and Cotton sent out a playful collection that recalled “Magnum P.I.” and “Miami Vice” – right down to the ironic mustaches on the models. The opening look said it all: A cream short sleeve shirt, trousers with a Hawaiian needlepoint motif resembling unsightly upholstery, and a matching tie. The duo used fabric made from recycled plastic bottles as well as more traditional jersey, cotton, and leather.
Samson explored themes of teen angst and adolescence, including such typical pursuits as cars, tattoos, and body piercing. To wit: He paired baggy shorts with a black cat print T-shirt where the feline had been pierced ears-to-whiskers with silver rings. He also showed Kurt Cobain-inspired plaid shirts – worn two at a time – with shorts and beanies.