The collection was a mix of formal and informal silhouettes — double-breasted and two-button single-breasted suits paired with polos and collarless shirts. “I like formal casual wear so we are using formal wear to influence the casual wear, rather than the other way around,” said Philip Start, the London retailer who launched his collection in 2008. “My favorite fabric is cotton. I love cotton suits because they crease a bit, you can wear them with trainers, and you can dress them up or down,” said Start. Trousers came cropped or cuffed at the ankle and suits came in shades of coffee, cream, and navy. Many of the models wore straw caps, courtesy of Bernstock Spiers, which heightened the collection’s summery and laid-back spirit.

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