This collection, inspired by the fleur-de-lis, wasn’t one for wallflowers. Voluminous silhouettes and dramatic flourishes included oversized, textured trench coats with neckerchiefs, and long or short overalls that models wore with very little underneath – except for a tattoo or two.

 

The Chinese-born designer, who studied fashion in Europe, said his inspirations came from the Scouts, and the outdoorsy nature of the boys’ pursuits. “I like the way their clothes were bloated and distorted by the wind,” he told WWD earlier this month. “It’s about translating the rustic nature of the countryside into urban sophistication.” There were coats whose surfaces mimicked wrinkled tree bark; tops and jackets with a round and bumpy, Smarties-like weave; and suits that looked as if they were cut from thick felt.

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