Easy does it — Giorgio Armani sent out a legion of unstructured silhouettes ranging from gently rumpled jackets with unpadded shoulders to the laid-back white suits, with Bermuda shorts in lieu of pants, that closed the show. “This is a sexy man, but a classy one, a classy gigolo,” said the designer, who set a new sartorial standard for the male archetype in 1980 when he dressed Richard Gere for his first major film role.
Armani’s collection also played with proportion: He paired slightly elongated jackets with pleated trousers that were roomy around the top and narrow at the bottom — a look that only the slimmest of men can really pull off.
Knits ranged from the loose fitting, as in one with an elongated argyle weave down the arm, to the more body-conscious, as in stretchy double-breasted jackets that hugged models’ broad shoulders. Sports jackets — some the color of faded denim — had a breezy, lived-in look.
After the show, Armani told reporters that designers have a role to play in educating men and improving the way they look. “Fashion has reached grotesque levels, and [with this collection] I felt the need to stand my ground, to improve men aesthetically. Believe me, I’ve seen lots of aliens this week. All eyes are upon the industry right now and we are living in times of economic hardship, which means that designers should be making collections that actually sell,” he said.