Frida Giannini embraced one of Milan’s most ubiquitous trends for men — and came out with flying colors. In an appealing and spirited spring collection, Gucci’s creative director married a blazing Mediterranean palette to pert, youthful tailoring and retro-tinged vacation clothes.
While head-to-toe Kelly green, watermelon and cobalt might sound like an assault on the eyes, the colors didn’t scream as loud as the ear-splitting Led Zeppelin soundtrack. They were rendered in dry, crisp fabrics like raffia, washed cotton and cotton jersey.
While Giannini made a case for monochromatic dressing with sharp, slim suits or sweater-pant combos in shades like rust or sky blue, she also broke things up in approachable ways. Trimly tailored blazers, often double-breasted, looked terrific over slim white chinos.
And there was yet more color: Every look was grounded in the Florentine house’s iconic horse-bit loafers, celebrating their 60th birthday next year, in an array of toned-down brights. A mustard pair gave oomph to a black pea coat with white pants, for example.
Backstage, Giannini revealed the starting point for her spectral experiment: a Gucci carrier bag for shoes in striped burlap from the Sixties. She reworked it into a canvas weekender in sun-kissed colors, punctuating her convincing case for a stylish summer getaway.