Back to purism, pure and simple. Returning to her namesake brand after an eight-year absence, house founder Jil Sander swept aside the often experimental ways of her acclaimed successor Raf Simons (now the couturier at Christian Dior in Paris) and plied her signature minimalist tailoring. The collection was crisp, graphic and youthful — and the men’s wear crowd issued a cheer when the shy German designer briefly emerged for a bow behind a scrim of white columns.
She opened her brisk show with a sleeveless navy frock coat over a white, short-sleeve nerd shirt and shorts, setting her main agenda: Plays on proportion, and a mix of formal and sporty. Tailored jackets and mac coats were either trim and elongated, or abbreviated and flaring. Trousers came slim, cuffed and cropped well above the ankle, while low-slung boardshorts were cut in suiting fabrics.
Sander spiked her pristine silhouettes with a generous mix of classic and vivid colors, from terrific, long-line tan suits spliced with white panels, to boxy garage jackets in a searing Yves Klein blue. There were prints, too: Polka dots tightly crowded onto double-breasted jackets with matching shirts, and Mondrian-esque stripes tracing cardigans.
Sander set the reset button with this show, and let the industry know that — 44 years after founding her label in Hamburg — she still has something to say.