Tie bars and pocket squares on the John Varvatos runway? You bet. “Dressed up but not stiff” was the the American designer’s modus operandi for spring, and he opened the show with handsome three-piece summer suits in a palette of creams and white — the fabrics dry and elegantly rumpled.

 

The collection then accrued a military attitude, and an olive peacoat looked smashing over lean white pants. Natty buccaneer and admiral coats with rows of tightly spaced buttons had that rock ‘n’ roll swagger for which Varvatos is known.

But as the show progressed, the designer overreached in his dress-up quest and veered into flashy territory: Gangster suits in outsized pinstripes, satin pants bearing tuxedo stripes and jackets trailing streamers from their cuffs.

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