Accompanied by 20 jolly sailors tap dancing to jazz music from the Thirties, Thom Browne took to the high seas for spring, clinging to the life jacket — not the down jacket — and similar nautical gear for this outerwear-focused collection.

The opening suit was topped with a ceremonial rain cape with tricolor stripes, crafted from bands of reflective white tape, like a futuristic mummy. Some of the looks that followed had similar strait jacket airs, especially for one poor fellow in a chunky white sweater and short cotton pants who shuffled along in a long body cage made of white canvas bands.

Strip off the gimmicks and there was a sea of supercool waterproof jackets. Winners included a short white PVC peacoat; a navy utility jacket with glossy PVC paneling at the shoulder and hood; a white hooded sailing anorak with lacing at the neck; and an oversized funnel-necked yellow rain slicker. As upbeat as the show was, the mood was dampened, literally, by the sweltering venue.

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