After a fabulous fall collection, Neil Barrett lived up to expectations for spring. An athletic, masculine vibe was tempered by deconstructed shapes and fluid fabrics. The navy silk suit and flowing trench that opened the show perfectly summed up Barrett’s new approach to tailoring. Sartorial codes were melded into sophisticated sportswear, with a baseball-inspired silhouette running through the collection. There were well-cut jackets with contrasting sleeves and jersey-inspired striped V-neck shirts.

Highlights of his open-air show included a navy neoprene sweater with a molded cocoon shape, and a summery print of white brush strokes on an electric blue ground. After a steamy Milan day, a smattering of rain came, but the stormy sky seemed to enhance the iridescent leather jackets and bombers that changed color in the light.

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