Miuccia Prada wished to set the reset button with her spring men’s show, paraded in a blinding white space of jutting, geometric forms. “Starting from scratch,” she said backstage, citing fatigue with “overlapping references” and a wish to return to something “simple.”
Indeed, one of the principal design features of this spare, print-free collection — besides a return to her fascination with Seventies silhouettes and quirky, vintage-shop colors — was an “obsession with lines,” something she said can be traced back to costumes in Roman and Grecian times.
They certainly gave the show an athletic pulse, as models zigzagged down a ramp, a band of contrasting color flashing inside their pant legs. Broad borders appeared on trim, lightweight coats — a popular item across the Italian men’s collections — and on loose tank tops and tennis sweaters.
Prada paraded her women’s resort line, too, which bore the same hallmarks. Styled with two-tone headbands and boxy flight-attendant bags, the women’s looks heightened the atmosphere of a school gymnasium circa 1973.
For men, the shapes were straightforward: Two-button suits with patch pockets and slightly flared pants, nerdy polos with contrasting collars and plackets, short-sleeve leisure jackets and those tubular coats. After that, the Bakelite or school uniform colors could be combined in ways harmonious or jarring. If it became repetitive, the collection was still one of the weekend’s standouts.