Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli continue to shape a new identity for the Valentino man. Long gone are the days of the charming Italian gigolo and in his stead is an ultrayoung, athletic, techno-savvy protagonist who is more at home in the concrete jungle than on the Riviera. Not that any of the elegance has been lost. The mix of sporty and military references with couturelike volumes, ergonomic lines and graphic paneled constructions resulted in a sophisticated offering. “Our goal is to revisit men’s staples, to turn them into icons,” Piccioli said. Mission accomplished. Even the bomber jackets were showstoppers, crafted from panels of cotton, leather and nylon with silk gabardine inserts in khaki shades with pops of color, while the traditional cotton poplin shirt morphed into polo style tops with exaggerated volumes.

Tailoring was sleek, minimalistic and modern, accessorized with cool multimedia sneakers with rubber studs. Though camouflage was one of the main story lines, worked on everything from trenchcoats to iPad holders with black leather intarsia details, this was not a wardrobe for blending into the background.

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