“It’s about leisure, energy, youthfulness and creating this kinetic energy which I think is missing today, for the young in particular,” designer Paul Surridge said of his latest collection. Its boxy volumes were the product of deconstructing and reconstructing the khaki uniform using compact shirt fabrics and lightweight jerseys to create youthful silhouettes inspired by Sixties leisure wear. Neon knits were used to break up the khaki action. Four-button summer suits came in two-tone cotton/wool fabrics that had a subtle iridescent sheen. Elsewhere, subtle variations of a black and white print loosely inspired by Roy Lichtenstein’s Ben-Day dots were used on separate elements of suits, forcing the eye to do a double take. A talent to watch, Surridge honored retro American classics while retaining a modernist, minimalist aesthetic that was in a league of its own.

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