Tweed isn’t a conventional summer fabric, but Billy Reid, the recent CFDA men’s wear winner, used it to handsome effect when worked in linen for a double-breasted suit. The unexpected material, along with others like cotton and silk terry and hopsack, were the focal point of his men’s collection. “In one word: chic,” said Reid of his attitude for spring. He succeeded by bringing a new level of sophistication to the clothes. There was a pronounced European flair to his flowing pleated trousers and the roped Continental shoulders on tailored jackets. And without dismissing the American workwear — a coated-cotton utility jacket, sport coats in rustic hopsack — Reid added more polish to his evolving aesthetic.