Channeling a post-World War II fighter pilot, Tim Coppens entitled his on-target spring collection Gentlemen of the Sky. The offering centered around what has become his statement piece, the bomber jacket, shown this season in a variety of new colors, including rust, ivy green, dust blue and sepia. As always, his trademark contrasting sleeves, zipper play and aerodynamic constructions were executed with sharp precision. The protective quilting on jackets, leather shorts and Velcro waist straps on the “Top Gun”-inspired pants worked well with the theme, but were sometimes too tricky. Yet the true tailored clothing, a first for the designer, looked sleek and modern, exuding a minimalistic aesthetic. In a short time, Coppens has established himself as a master of tailored sportswear, and that same sensibility was evident with his suits, cementing his position as one of men’s wear’s most promising designers.

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