“Fresh, clean and crisp” was the overarching feel Tommy Hilfiger said he was aiming for with his men’s collection, and the designer delivered in spades. Stripes in multiform permutations were the dominant decorative motif, giving the show (held, aptly, at the Maritime Hotel) a brisk, nautical feel. Apart from traditional Breton-stripe jerseys, there were racing stripes on jackets, bold, colorful pencil stripes on seersucker suits and bands on the arms of blazers. “When I started my collection over 25 years ago, I did nautical and safari, so I wanted to redo it — in a brand new way — under the heading of ‘Prep Club,’” Hilfiger said.
Much of the updating came courtesy of creative consultant Simon Spurr, who brought an Englishman’s sharp eye for polished elegance to Hilfiger’s classic American sportswear — and whom Hilfiger was quick to credit. The preppy look can easily become hackneyed on a runway, but the two came up with an enticing, modern version with multihued cable-knit sweaters, button-down shirts with colorfully patterned plackets and cool, espadrille-style leather sneakers. Motorcycle jackets in pieced leather gave the collection a whiff of the designer’s signature rock ’n’ roll attitude, while patchwork denim went way back, recalling the hippie roots of his original People’s Place shop in Elmira, N.Y.