Rei Kawakubo sent an army of dressed-down punks stomping out onto her spring runway. Their hair dyed lurid orange and clamped with studded leather headbands, the models navigated a grid of steel poles wearing pajama suits paired with slouchy overcoats. The designer underlined the collection’s rebellious mood by splicing together unexpected fabrics and silhouettes, such as a gray pinstripe coat patched with strips of black snakeskin and studded leather, or a duffel coat worked in light gray jersey. Her simple shirt-and-pant combos came in fabrics that spanned a rocker’s wardrobe — red tartan, leopard print, camouflage and gold lame. The overall effect was wistful and off-kilter, as Kawakubo displayed her knack for crafting collections that mingle modern design with nostalgia.



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