Kris Van Assche is on a roll at Dior Homme. The military theme he marched out last fall tilted naval for spring, and everything was shipshape chic: Purposeful and immaculate in a range of deep, mesmerizing blues.

Backstage, Van Assche said a navy blazer was the starting point for a complete wardrobe, and indeed they were the first looks out. Slightly shrunken, taut and linear, they were smartened further with crested silver buttons. The tailoring was young, precise and sprightly. The season’s tapered trousers sprouted two pleats at the front; small flap pockets around back.

Internal drawstrings gently cinched the waists of tubular coats — an example of how Van Assche slyly integrated athletic influences into formal silhouettes. Technical mesh was another. It crept over the sleeves and backs of blazers and trench coats until they became virtually sheer, living up to the collection’s title: Light. The outerwear was terrific: Luxurious, minimalist versions of bomber and flight jackets, and sleek leather parkas and windbreakers topstitched in red.

While sailor style is a cliché in men’s wear, Van Assche charted some fresh waters. The stripes of his sweaters had a 3D rope texture, while vivid red shirts worn underneath further ignited their graphic appeal.

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