Could Riccardo Tisci, who fanned a craze for snarling Rottweiler motifs, make religious iconography just as trendy? The designer is sure to win some new converts with this exhilarating show — a feverish parade of sharp tailoring, powdery colors and ghostly prints embedded in brocades.
The church incense and organ music that preceded the show set the mood for Tisci’s communion theme. And while he continued his devotion to active shapes — sweatshirts, polos, T-shirts and baseball jackets — the designer renounced his recent fixation with skirts for men. Instead, bi-level tunics flapped under suit jackets, delivering that same Tisci edge. Inspired by the Bauhaus movement, the tailoring was bold and linear, with triangles of fabric inset into lapels and shirt collars.
Daring too were feminine fabrics, including duchess satin and organza, though Tisci treated them like sweatshirt material, stamping his sporty jerseys with female religious icons instead of player numbers. The face prints were most arresting when airbrushed over multiple garments, including shirts and ties, so they shifted as the models walked.
Although sins in this show included yet more ridiculous nose jewelry, hallelujah for fashion showmen like Tisci.