In this breezy collection, creative director Bill Gaytten put the spotlight on inventive tailoring — and continued to steer the house out of the confines of its founder’s aesthetic. Referencing surrealist artists, Gaytten played with dense floral embroideries, and playful prints depicting oversized shells or cloudy skies à la Magritte.
They were worked onto easy suits with roomy knee-length shorts, or coats that closed asymmetrically, inset with panels that revealed the garment’s lining. Sometimes Gaytten was heavy-handed with the theme, as in a giant metallic lobster strapped to a bare-chested model and paired with shorts in fishing net material. But aside from a few flights of fancy, the lineup succeeded in tapping a directional yet approachable vein.