With Siouxsie and the Banshees on the soundtrack, a post-punk chill permeated this show, staged on a raised runway of industrial-strength metal. The collection riffed on myriad musical genres, and was more masculine and cleaned up than recent Lanvin outings.
Black leather was one of the key ingredients, even used for shirts and ties under suits. Flowing high-waist pants worn with oversized white shirts with rolled sleeves conjured Fred Astaire — shod here in beefy sport sandals in lieu of tap shoes. There were great boxy T-shirts, classic jackets with billowing backs, a ska-style black shirt with a neon front, and glam suits in glimmering silver.
Silky, ultra-light windbreakers in python and sheer nylon were worn like shirts, tucked into slim, shiny pants or over tailored shorts. Spring’s top trends for men — lightness, transparency, silky fabrics and upscale technical sportswear — were in their element here. And at a time where men want to look unique in the way they dress, this collection brimmed with ideas.