Why an aquatic theme for Nicola Formichetti? Because Mugler’s digital-savvy creative director — prone to live-streaming and crowdsourcing — decided to go offline this season and “under the sea is the only place we can’t have Wi-Fi,” he laughed. He and men’s wear designer Romain Kremer brought in a new tailoring team and honed in on fundamentals — jackets, pants and shirts — “without being too extreme,” as Formichetti put it. Although the gill-like slashes and jutting fins were outré, his suits had a taut, muscular presence. And the theme worked swimmingly for graphic scuba tops and a sleek trenchcoats in sea foam green or oil-slick black.

Why an aquatic theme for Nicola Formichetti? Because Mugler’s digital-savvy creative director — prone to live-streaming and crowdsourcing — decided to go offline this season and “under the sea is the only place we can’t have Wi-Fi,” he laughed. He and men’s wear designer Romain Kremer brought in a new tailoring team and honed in on fundamentals — jackets, pants and shirts — “without being too extreme,” as Formichetti put it. Although the gill-like slashes and jutting fins were outré, his suits had a taut, muscular presence. And the theme worked swimmingly for graphic scuba tops and a sleek trenchcoats in sea foam green or oil-slick black.

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