Raf Simons took elements of masculine and feminine dressing and blurred the boundaries between the two — with jarring effect. Delicate floral prints, pleating, broderie anglaise and shades of pink were applied to modern, angular silhouettes.
The cast of youthful models — sporting long, greasy bangs — raced through an industrial space wearing boxy white shirts or overcoats with drop waists, whose backs were done in floral prints and had pleated skirts.
Simons also sent out off-kilter tailoring, on the heels of the short suits he’d introduced last season. Jackets with nipped-in waists were paired with tailored shorts slit at the thigh, or pants that pooled boyishly at the ankles, worn over sneakers.
The collection didn’t have an obvious commercial appeal — particularly smock tops with eerie illustrations of women, worn like dresses — but no doubt the Belgian designer’s singular vision will have a ripple effect. Next week, Simons makes his debut as Dior’s new couturier.