In fighting form, Yohji Yamamoto’s rebellious side showed through in his spring collection. Models sporting nasty shiners and facial cuts coolly strolled out in suits, which – with their large jackets and short pants in light summer wools in contrast patterns – were super cool. Even the voluminous pants had martial arts airs, with the swishing, majestic motion of their fabric.

Not that it was all dark in mood. There were terrific handkerchief prints and intense color combinations, such as a blazing orange silk jacket with a salmon drawstring version of the sarouel-style pant, for instance.
Everything was super light and relaxed, which for a fighter is the ideal mental state. Yamamoto sported a smile and black eye when he took his bow, with an intriguing “For Sale” message stitched on the back of his jacket.

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