Nicoll showed his men’s collection and introduced S/HE, a capsule collection for men and women designed in collaboration with the British artist Linder, and featuring her photo collage prints. The men’s collection showcased Nicoll’s signature minimal looks, with leather trousers, mesh T-shirts and boiler suits in misty gray, cobalt blue and a silvery silk jacquard reptilian pattern.
Linder’s collage prints of snakes, hawks and men’s faces came on T-shirts and the backs of varsity jackets. Nicoll said this season’s collage prints came from Seventies gay porn, inspired by pictures he found “trawling through sex shops in Barcelona.” Nicoll, who has been collaborating with Linder since 2008, said he and she finally “decided to commit for the long term.” The new S/HE capsule collection will be print-based, and sit across Nicoll’s men’s and women’s lines. The women’s capsule collection will be shown in September along with Nicoll’s main collection — minus the gay porn.