Brendan Mullane took Rome — Brioni’s home — as his inspiration, and he did his best to steer clear of clichés. “I didn’t want this collection to be about terra-cotta and warmth, but rather the discovery, the unveiling of a more hidden and desirable Rome.”

Mullane said he and his team rose very early and visited sites including the Vatican Museums and the Pantheon and saw “steely, icy grays, dusty blues and pinks.” Their experience was fodder for this refined, tactile collection that included short-sleeve, lightweight sweaters in gentle colors such as cornflower blue and lilac, or jacquard polo shirts and T-shirts with geometric or herringbone patterns.

Silk was a major story too: Mullane swiped a Fifties tie from Brioni’s archives, and had it woven into a glossy fabric that he used for items ranging from car coats with drawstring waists to pajama tops that were tucked neatly into tailored trousers, as well as varsity jackets and hybrid sweaters that were silk in the front and knit at the back. Tailoring is the core of this collection, and there was much on offer, including suits with a bird’s-eye weave, a rainstorm of checks, and trousers with a small and subtle houndstooth weave.

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