For spring, Sergio Corneliani imagined a travelling man bound for the Far East. Cue Mao-collared suits that fastened with buttons or zippers.

The textures were intriguing — shiny silk, perforated or laser-printed leather as well as quilting — enlivening otherwise sober silhouettes. Linen pants, fitted and slightly cropped, came in an appealing palette of pale pink, blue grey and cream, and mixed well with a series of cotton knits. Loosely woven and loaded with a bold stitch in wine red, white, beige, black or turquoise, they had a youthful energy to them.

It’s unclear what the Mantua-based tailor wished to express with a series of high-collared jackets equipped with an unruly strap across the throat: They had a sci-fi feel to them, yet looked a tad outdated.

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