Pitti Uomo’s guest of honor Junichi Abe sent a line-up of washed-out Hawaiian prints that gave a series of impeccably worked silhouettes an insouciant feel for his Kolor label.

The Japanese designer played with proportions matching structured blazers with soft voluminous bermudas. Pants were cropped and slightly tapered, but kept an individual note through Abe’s innovative tailoring and knack for detail.

Paneling was a key element. It was seen on blazers, the bottoms of which featured prints, nicely offsetting an otherwise subdued palette of grey-blues, warm browns and saturated greens. Interestingly, the printed matter also spilled from shirts over to waistbands, made elastic for a sportier look.

But the most outstanding silhouette was an extra-pale blue smock cut from a specially coated nylon. It gave the piece a strangely wrinkled, almost paper-thin look, which Abe also used for pants, shorts, even double-breasted suits, putting his undisputed expertise for fabrics to the test. 

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