The space Humberto Leon and Carol Lim chose for their runway debut seemed mammoth. Sure, there was a crowd of editors, retailers and the requisite cool-kid set in the house — not to mention Rihanna and Justin Bieber for good measure. But when the lights went down and the engines of 18 luxury sports cars revved up with the models at their wheels, it became clear that it was practicality, not vanity, that dictated the choice.
Well, maybe a little bit of vanity.
The collection fused New York streetwear with riffs on the traditional Korean garments of Lim’s youth, and the drag racing subculture Leon revered in his. There were cross-front crepe tops in black, red and blue that were paired with a matching skirt or with oversize “baji” pants (resembling shorts over pants) in contrasting block prints. There were Neoprene T-shirts and leathers, whether a slouchy moto jacket or a crinkled leather mini, and anoraks that were folded under in front as a nod to a ceremonial wedding garment.
For the men’s, oversize graphic Neoprene Ts, sharp leather jackets, baggy cargo shorts and tech parkas enhanced the brand’s downtown cool-kid aesthetic.
This lineup was far more than the “basics plus” collection it started with 10 years ago, and offered a promising glimpse at what these two self-described nerds have to offer.