Richard Chai covered a lot of territory with his spring Richard Chai Love collection, wandering from airy tailoring to simple dresses to maxiskirts and crop tops, with some puzzling layers worked in, too. His skirt-over-pants styling technique confused. Of the many options presented, the maxi lengths — dresses and extra-long, extra-wide trousers — were the most interesting, although the fits seemed off. Chai also introduced a collaboration of leathers with Andrew Marc, the result of which were some nifty quilted moto coats; a long white style in particular was a fresh update on the biker jacket trend.

The collaboration was even stronger in the men’s lineup, which helped toughen up looks that in the past could feel too soft and ethereal. These harder edges translated into well-structured tailored clothing, at times paired with skinny pants but also shown with palazzo-style flowy bottoms. Chai’s signature layering worked better here, especially with the cotton Henley over a cornflower blue windowpane shirt and sky blue glen-plaid pleated shorts. But the highlight was undoubtedly the Andrew Marc leathers, which provided a lift to the entire presentation.

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