There’s a bookish quality to Robert Geller’s aesthetic in his exploration of high-minded concepts through clothes. This season he imbued his collection with the spirit of Eighties Russia, a time when punk rock and New Wave influences were seeping through an increasingly porous Iron Curtain and animating the country’s youth — all the while contrasting with the country’s storied intellectual past.

Muddy colors, slub cotton tank tops, leather vests and plenty of layering helped tell a romanticized version of that story, while black hats in the shape of bowls hugged models’ heads, adding an element of Eastern Orthodox monasticism. Geller included many of his signatures, such as drop-crotch shorts, neoprene pieces and gym wear. While the show didn’t break a lot of new ground for Geller, it maintained his admirable embrace of poetic and unconventional men’s wear forms.

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