There were photo ops galore at the Berluti presentation Friday night, where catwalk elements were mixed with a dashing presentation, including a witty vignette exalting loafers on a bicycle built for 12. Models posed in the open-flung windows of the 17th-century Hôtel de Sully before descending to lounge in abstract picture frames set in the mansion’s secret garden, exuding the insouciant air of true luxury.
Taking cues from Impressionist painting, Alessandro Sartori introduced an innovative palette of oxblood, eggplant, sunflower, lilac and some Yves Klein blue. Japanese indigo yarn was bleached, recolored and then woven to create crisp single- and double-breasted suits with a denimlike feel, while silk was treated to a ceramic bath making it look like leather, only softer and much lighter.
“It’s all about reducing weight for the summer,” said Sartori, pointing to “a new type of suit,” consisting of no more than a pair of cropped pants and a short vest that mimicked the functions of a proper jacket via a set of inside pockets.
Tailoring was close to the body, employing the Neapolitan shoulder and a raglan seam — moved to the rear — allowing for more flexibility. The collection’s Thirties airs was heightened by two-tone shoes and straw boaters.
For the first time, Berluti took bespoke to the runway, presenting silk and mohair evening suits. Handmade by the Atelier Arnys for Berluti, they should quickly find their way onto the red carpet. From September onwards, the house will offer bespoke services in all categories, including jeans and sportswear, completing its journey from elite cobbler to luxury lifestyle label.