Rei Kawakubo’s punk-inspired collection was a wonder to behold: daring and yet right on trend. Continuing the tailoring experiments she initiated with her terrific fall women’s collection, she opened her show with black cutaway jackets with inlays of softer tulle fabrics flowing off the back and sides. Tubular pants came bunched up, as if caught in cobwebs.
The mood lightened up with a series of noisy cartoon prints and bold florals on shirts and skinny ribbed pants. Wrinkled effects were an indispensable element of the collection and made total sense on a run of tartans. Lightweight layers — a tartan shirt and two tartan blazers in varying proportions worn on top of each other — came with matching Bermuda shorts. It gave the ensemble a rebellious feel.
Lightness came through via soft denim patchworks and a particularly appealing shade of silvery gray, seen on some of Kawakubo’s quirky punk suits.
For the finale, Kawakubo saved a plethora of head scarves in tartan, floral and graphic prints that were right on trend and offset clean shirts, sliced open on the sleeves or shoulders.