On Friday night, Riccardo Tisci laid claim to many of the men’s trends that he ignited, now gaining currency on other Paris runways. Among them are sport influences, allover prints and a Nineties streetwear vibe.
His spring collection was a riot of busy prints, depicting primitive technology (mainly reel-to-reel tape decks), bold stripes and photo prints. Every garment, every layer — outerwear, suit jackets, tank tops, basketball shorts, leggings — offered more real estate for pattern. Flapping loincloths printed with targets, numbers or portraits also jostled for the eye’s attention.
Every once in a while, a sharp black suit or a breezy white summer parka offered a reprieve from the blizzard of prints. The circuitry patterns worked best on technical outerwear; and the stripes seemed fresher, banded across shirts, sweaters or a leather popover.
War paint and bare torsos heightened the tribal feel of the show, paraded to a pounding beat in a covered parking garage. A smattering of women’s looks — a corset and some printed blazers — completed his fashion gang.
While this show didn’t represent any step forward for Tisci, nobody could mistake these clothes for anything but Givenchy.