Dazzling. The Antwerp-based designer unveiled a new proposition for men: Languid and bohemian, yet formal enough to pass muster at any fancy table.
Lustrous silks, jewel tones and fringed scarves in foulard prints wound and draped just so — hallmarks of his acclaimed women’s collection — were tempered by a cast of heavily tattooed models, their hair slicked back Fifties style.
Likewise, fancy dinner jackets and robelike coats were rendered less precious by pairing them with pajamalike, drop-crotch pants. Models mingled in an old warehouse in their puffy blousons, Fonzi T-shirts and fancy vests, and the audience roared when Ackermann — who did a dalliance with men’s in 2010 — strolled out for his bow. In only a dozen or so looks, he made a big impression.
His take on the dandy gang? “They’re sophisticated in their rebellion,” he said.