The show notes for the John Galliano men’s wear show set the pace: “Break the silhouette. Layer it. Vent it. Zip it on. Zip it off.”

The models adopted the same brisk tempo, zipping past in outfits that nodded to the Nineties streetwear trend sweeping the catwalks this season. That meant oversize tops and jackets in perforated black leather, which was underlaid with eye-popping colors such as acid yellow or coral pink to create a polka dot motif.

Designer Bill Gaytten’s need for speed was further underlined by the tire prints adorning the sleeves and back of a gray overcoat. Outerwear was the strong point of this collection, with coats featuring curved and overlaid panels that opened on deep zippered seams, emphasizing the sense of movement.

It was a far cry from founder John Galliano’s frenzied invention, but this lineup provided retailers with some solid commercial options.

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