Who could be unmoved by a road trip across the heart of America? Certainly not Kim Jones, whose spring collection was an ode to the heartland — its preppies and hippies, its forest rangers and screen idols.
With a skeletal set of a Shaker barn as a backdrop — and a special R.E.M. mix that had Marc Jacobs, still in silk pajamas, singing right along — Jones opened his show with some of the snazziest checked suits seen so far this season. Some jersey blazers in exploded checks seemed a wink to that maligned American species, the used-car salesman.
Despite the blizzard of references he cited during a preview, Jones etched his theme lightly, creating handsome and covetable clothes.
As usual, everything was luxed up like only Vuitton can. Bush jackets were tie-dyed by hand at a remote atelier in Japan, producing mesmerizing patterns. Varsity jackets came in kimono silks; blousons in matte crocodile skin that carry six-figure price tags. The pièce de résistance was a black dinner jacket with Vuitton’s famous monogram twinkling in iridescent fashion. In fact, tiny shards of mother of pearl had been woven into the fabric.
A travel fanatic, Jones never forgets function, and so the breezy silk macs and bombers were all fully reversible. As for the rucksacks and travel cases, he had checkered Damier patterns drilled and water cut into caramel-colored leather, thereby lightening the traveler’s load — along with his wallet.