“It’s going to be more chaotic this time, but great fun,” said Rick Owens in anticipation of his show. That was an understatement. In his defense, the designer could not have found the right words to describe what was about to follow anyway.

The show opened with a bunch of wrestling werewolves also known as Winny Puhh. This Estonian punk metal band, which tried for the Eurovision Song Contest but did not qualify, seemed the right match for Owens’ Gothic allure.

While the drummers were playing on a spinning wheel tilted into its vertical position, the band’s guitarists, with microphones strapped to their heads, eventually ended up dangling head-down from the ceiling, one ankle trapped in a mountaineer cord.

The sight was so disturbing it diverted the attention from Owens’s athletic collection, the key silhouette of which was centered on basketball-inspired baggy tank tops and double-zipped sleeveless vests with matching shorts. It went from slouchy to rather straight and streamlined, which played well with a run of elongated crewneck jackets, while a more graphic note came through via round perforated leather elements, incorporated into a series of asymmetrical overcoats and jackets.

The line of oversize running shoes Owens designed for Adidas sported a combination of black, white and cream leather and nylon mixes.

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