With his show set in a military school, Thom Browne unleashed an army of doll soldiers wearing red lipstick, reflective sunglasses and heeled loafers paired with flouncy socks. They looked like a bunch of menacing clones.

The New York-based designer took cues from a mix and match of historical uniforms spanning the gamut from Napoleon to the Red Army. There were puffy military jackets with cut-off sleeves and stiff, voluminous coats. Eighteenth-century petticoats peeked from under pants, while short jacquard jodhpurs had military cords dangling.

For the finale, Browne translated an evening look into a black canvas coat with a long trail somehow reminiscent of Darth Vader, who then hoisted a white flag to the sounds of “All We Need Is Love” by The Beatles. Clearly, it was more about the message than the clothes.

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