Workwear and military uniforms were the guiding themes for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino. The duo kicked off with a series of suits and outerwear, including shirt jackets and parkas, spliced together from various shades of denim for a graphic color-blocked effect with a Nineties feel.

Picking up on the army inspiration they first mined a year ago, the designers gave a twist to aviator-style khaki or beige jackets by adding blanket stripes and a single black leather breast pocket that was bonded so flat, it looked like duct tape.

Satiny pants came in a floral chine design that resembled an abstract camouflage print, while toile de Jouy motifs in muted shades evoked faded World War II-era Hawaiian prints. Adding to the tropical subcurrent, some suits were paired with crocodile and rubber thongs made in collaboration with Brazilian firm Havaianas.

With its mix of sporty separates and retro-flavored tailoring, this collection should provide plenty to make retailers beam.

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