Zen was the mood at Yohji Yamamoto’s men’s show. The designer played mostly with layers, conjuring a series of ensembles that evoked the image of urban samurais. The jackets sported two layers of sleeves, with the upper one being rolled up a third, while pants came in several variations — either multilayered, featuring an apron element hanging down the side, or resembling kimono-pants via intricate wrappings around the waist. Despite their traditional Japanese wardrobe references, the suits looked cool and modern.

Adding to the placid undercurrent, Yamamoto proposed languid silky bib overalls worn over military shirt jackets, which moved beautifully, as models marched nonchalantly down the wooden runway, boasting their long braided hair.

More elegant was a double-breasted, pin-striped suit that appeared to be spray-painted for a wet, glossy look.

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