In his first spring/summer collection for Dunhill, creative director John Ray challenged the shrunken proportions that have dominated tailoring in recent years. His elongated, eight-button blazers and crisp, one-button gingham suits exuded an old-world elegance heightened further by pants hitched up by braces.

There were trimmer suits, too, like a creamy silk number of the type well-to-do Europeans would wear on a grand tour, laundering daily and hung to drip dry overnight.

Camp shirts and swim shorts came in intricate botanical prints, and swanky shantung dinner jackets had a similar tropical feel, underscoring the collection’s escapist mood.

Given an injection of funding by parent Richemont, Dunhill is gearing up for a rejuvenation and expansion drive that will include a new store concept and a return to the runway.

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